and Finland 2009
Bremen - Puttgarden/Rödby (F=Ferry) -
Helsingör/Helsingborg (F) - Grisslehamn/Eckerö (F)
- Käringsund (Ǻland) - Vårdö (Ǻland) - Hummelvik/Kumlinge
(F) - Kumlinge (Ǻland) - Kumlinge/Torsholma (F) - Brändö (Ǻland)
- Ǻva/Kustavi (F) - Turku - Uusikaupunki - Merikarvia - Reposaari -
Parainen - Galtby/Kökar (F) - Kökar (Ǻland) - Kökar/Föglö (F) - Föglö
(Ǻland) - Degerby/Svinö (F) - Degersand (Ǻland) - Eckerö/Grisslehamn
(F) - Västeras - Karlsborg - Helsingborg/Helsingör (F) -
Rödby/Puttgarden (F) - Bremen
Already some years ago the idea for an other vacation to the
island region of the Ǻland archipelago matured in the direction of
Finland. Then this year during a long summer holiday it was finally
possible to travel by "Island-Hopping" via Vårdö (C=Campside) with
Simkäla, to Kumlinge (C) with Seglinge and Enklinge as well as Brändö
(C) with Lappo, Björkö and Jurmo to Finland and about Kökar (C) and
Föglö (C) again back on the "main"- Ǻland Island.
Skandlines brought us certainly on the Vogelfluglinie to Denmark
and Sweden. To be able to come from Sweden on the Ǻland islands, we
used the Eckeröline and paid for the ferry easily bookable on the
Internet for both directions less than 74 EUR (only certain departure
another ferry-company which supplies the
Archipelago to Finland about a northern, southern and across-going line
with smaller ferries (capacity 30-50 cars and up to 4 trucks /
caravans). Bicycles and people are carried free of charge, but in
summer the ferries are mostly always so full that a reservation is
necessary compelling. Our ferry inquiry - three weeks before travel
beginning via Internet put - was answered within 90 minutes positively.
Besides, a right travel planning with longer island stays can relieve
the travel cash substantially. In addition further below more.
In Grisslehamn on Vaddö, approx. 60 km to the north of Norrtälje we
waited for our ferry which should bring us on the Ǻland islands to
In the Sea-Quater, a maritime district in Mariehamn, the sea
days are organised in summer. One finds old sailing ships, music
presentations, craft and toys for older children.
With the cable ferry about the Töftösund on the island Vårdö we
proceed into the Ǻland island area. All
cable ferries and short ferries in the Ǻland
archipelago are to be used free of charge. The cable ferries operate -
up to few break times - 24h continuously, on 365 days in the year.
On the island Vårdö there is a nice camping place from which one
can start from with the kayak to enterprises or explore the island by
bicycle. Very near the school museum is to be find , but unfortunately
closed on the week-end. The church greets from the ferry coming in the
Grundsunda lies at the south end of Vårdö.
To reach from Vårdö the island Simkäla situated to the north,
there is an other cable ferry. Earlier one had to shout, today the
pressure on the bell button reaches to announce his transport wish.
On Simkäla Ami Blomquist, an important northern author lived.
If one follows the street further up to her end it goes only wide with
a bicycle ferry (liable for costs).
Something off the only continuous way over the island loads an inn one
to coffee and Ǻlands Pannkaka.
- the prescription for 4-6 people (freely translated):
1 litre of milk
1 coffee cup (approx. 150ml) milk rice
3/4 coffee cup (approx. 110ml) wheat flour
1/2 coffee cup (approx. 75ml)
1/2 teaspoon of
1 small yeast
Milk and rice are cooked. The eggs are hit with the sugar and are mixed
under. Now flour, salt and yeast cube is unterstirred, and a little bit
more milk is added, if the dough becomes too thick. The dough give in a
greased roast form or baking dish and with 210 ° 45-60 min in the stove
The Pannkaka is eaten with plum mush and whipped cream.
Hummelvik on Vårdö is the port
of sailing of the north line which leads to Torsholma at the south end
of Brändö. Then from Ǻva in the north it goes with an other ferry
further to the final harbour with Kustavi in Finland. Unfortunately,
there ruled bad wet weather and fog.
Our ship, the M/S Ǻlfågel, one heard long, before she came to view.
Every metre of loading area using well packed when it went about
Enklinge to Kumlinge, our next stop.
The ferry heads from the west coming first of all briefly in the north
of the local authority district for recumbent island Enklinge to put in
then on the north side of Kumlinge. From here there is also a small
ferry, the Enklinge with a row of additional journeys supplied.
Seglinge in the southwest of Kumlinge is supplied about a cable ferry
connection from Snäckö. Snäckö is also a harbour of the across-going
ferry service, from Sottunga in the south coming. The camping place
"Ledholm" lies about 1 km to the north this harbour. Though Björkö, the
island in the north-east, also belongs to the Kumlinge local authority
district, nevertheless, is connected by a cable ferry from the island
Lappo (Brändö local authority district). To Björkö further below more.
From Snäckö a look about the water on Seglinge. With the ferry harbour
lies the M/S Grisslan which the across-going line supplies.
With surprise we observed the swallows who accompanied
the ferry with the crossing constantly. Then it became also clear, why:
"Blind passengers" on the cable ferry between Kumlinge and Seglinge
Seglinge - on the northwest coast
Camping place "Ledholm" an easy one-star place has lain, amply, quietly
and favourably. One hardly looks at it of the hut, but she accommodates
a complete kitchen, 2 showers, a WC, wash basin and the office
including ministore. Negatively: The water was coloured brown and
smelt, because very iron-containing and manganese-containing.
One must know: The islands supply themselves about well, so that is to
be handled with the water economically, or it can come to problems with
the care. Everywhere in the shops fresh water is offered in big bottles
to the sales.
From a raised vantage point on Kumlinge one had a nice overview in the
direction of the south
From Sweden coming the postal route further led over the Ǻland islands
to Finland. Still today in the way one finds in addition posts and
By the way: Ǻbo is the Swedish name of the southwest-Finnish city of
"Hermas" on Enklinge is a museum farm which can be visited. Built in
the 18th century the buildings were still inhabited till some decades.
The museum provides a comprehensive and good overview about tools and
lives at the past.
Enklinge - west coast
stones, stones, stones...
With the M/S Ǻlfagel it further went on the north route from Kumlinge
via Lappo to Torsholma on Brändö.
To the Brändö local authority district also belong Jurmo in the north,
Körsö in the west and Asterholma and Lappo in the south. Björkö, linked
about a cable ferry with Lappo, belongs to the Kumlinge local authority
district and, hence, is not registered on the board.
With a small ferry it went of Torsholma on Brändö in the direction of
the south to Lappo...
... and then from there after approx. 2 km of bicycle journey over the
island further with a cable ferry to Björkö. Here the view at the road
end in the northwest.
Did the rocks with the water
Impressively also the crass contrast
or was it different around?
of the crossings
in the rock.
But also the splendid play of colour between rock and plants likes.
Close to Lappos yachtsman's harbour the Skärgards-Museum is open to the
Ferry to Jurmo in the north of Brändö.
Besides Korsberg in the north-west of the island Jurmo
Camping place on Brändö. In the evening strongly
frequents from tent tourists who travel by the bicycle over the islands.
Sundown on Brändö
Arrival in Finland with Kustavi, final harbour of the
To know importantly: The journey of "beginning harbour" to "final
harbour" must last at least 2 days if one does not want to pay the
approx. 4-fold ferry costs. If one can book, in addition, at least 3
huts-, camping- or hotel overnight stays etc. in the Archipelago on the
ferry road, the last section to the "final harbour" is free!
Our costs have themselves thus from calculated 212 EUR on 130 EUR
(outward journey and return journey!) reduces.
Uusikaupunki, situated to the north of Turku on the
Baltic Sea, celebrated just his Crusell festival.
Sundown on the camping place with Merikarvia, on half a way between
Turku and Vaasa. Our most northern travel point.
Reposaari is an island accessible over streets and lies
approx. 20 km to the west of Pori. The camping place lies with the
water. The places with sea look were desired very much.
Yyteri before the gates of Pori - Finnish Riviera with 6
km of nature-sandy beach
Turku - cathedral church
Turku - castle
Parainen camping - in the wood to the south of Turku in
the south-west-Finish Archipelago, and, nevertheless, in the water
conveniently with nice bath place.
Through the Archipelago in the west of Turku is the way
to the ferry harbour to Galtby on Korpoo.
The yellow ferries are to be used free of charge.
Galtby on Korpoo. The vehicles on the left in the
picture further want on the islands of the round way through the Finish
Archipelago. Our caravan stands in the shade and waits for the arrival
of the M/S Skiftet for the nearly 2 1/2 hour trip to Kökar. Finally,
the ferry comes to view.
On the ferry it is again closely. The crossing with
beaming blue sky is quiet.
Long before arrival on Kökar greet church and bell tower.
At this place lived of early Franciscan's monks. The foundations of the
buildings are still to be seen.
Kökar - church at close range.
- on the left: The small harbour of Hellsö
- on the right: In the distance one sees the big ferryboats passing
from Finland to Sweden
Kökar-camping place. On the left the service house with
showering, in the middle the adoption which also Marina administers.
Even if one does not suppose it, this camping place disposes of a free
Internet access WLAN. Because there are only 10 places with
electricity, one should announce himself in summer absolutely in
Hobby also on Kökar - amateur radio
In the afternoon if sometimes time remained, a vertical antenna
(triple-leg for the 20m-band, homemade) was mounted and connect to the
transceiver (TS-50S) to communicate from the islands with the world.
During the trip these became all together more than 1,100 calls among
other amateur radio stations in Japan, China, Indonesia, Russia,
Namibia, Swaziland, the USA, Canada and many European countries.
M/S Gudingen stands ready for the trip from Kökar via Sottunga to Föglö.
on the left: A look in the Brännfjärd with Finholma
on the right: CC-Camping. Unfortunately, the well equipped camping
place should be closed in 2010, if no successor is found.
Sundown over Föglö
Degerby on Föglö is the ferry harbour to the main
island. The house is the tourist information. The crossing with the M/S
Knipan lasts only approx. 25 min.
Degersand camping in the south on Eckerö. A
place in the first row is great and spoils with a great view...,
however, only if it does not attack from the south!
The wind has turned on the south, at night has brought
storm and rain and has left behind a disturbed sea.
From the postal museum at Berghamn the arrival
of the ferry is pursued back to Sweden.
Västerås (Sweden) owns a well
restored town quarter with many old houses in narrow lanes.
Karlsborg - fortress and museum
Karlsborg - camping beside the Götakanal