Åland-Archipelago and Finland 2009

Bremen - Puttgarden/Rödby (F=Ferry) - Helsingör/Helsingborg (F) - Grisslehamn/Eckerö (F) - Käringsund (Ǻland) - Vårdö (Ǻland) - Hummelvik/Kumlinge (F) - Kumlinge (Ǻland) - Kumlinge/Torsholma (F) - Brändö (Ǻland) - Ǻva/Kustavi (F) - Turku - Uusikaupunki - Merikarvia - Reposaari - Turku - Parainen - Galtby/Kökar (F) - Kökar (Ǻland) - Kökar/Föglö (F) - Föglö (Ǻland) - Degerby/Svinö (F) - Degersand (Ǻland) - Eckerö/Grisslehamn (F) - Västeras - Karlsborg - Helsingborg/Helsingör (F) - Rödby/Puttgarden (F) - Bremen

Already some years ago the idea for an other vacation to the island region of the Ǻland archipelago matured in the direction of Finland. Then this year during a long summer holiday it was finally possible to travel by "Island-Hopping" via Vårdö (C=Campside) with Simkäla, to Kumlinge (C) with Seglinge and Enklinge as well as Brändö (C) with Lappo, Björkö and Jurmo to Finland and about Kökar (C) and Föglö (C) again back on the "main"- Ǻland Island.

Skandlines brought us certainly on the Vogelfluglinie to Denmark and Sweden. To be able to come from Sweden on the Ǻland islands, we used the Eckeröline and paid for the ferry easily bookable on the Internet for both directions less than 74 EUR (only certain departure times)! "Ǻlandstrafiken" is of another ferry-company which supplies the Archipelago to Finland about a northern, southern and across-going line with smaller ferries (capacity 30-50 cars and up to 4 trucks / caravans). Bicycles and people are carried free of charge, but in summer the ferries are mostly always so full that a reservation is necessary compelling. Our ferry inquiry - three weeks before travel beginning via Internet put - was answered within 90 minutes positively. Besides, a right travel planning with longer island stays can relieve the travel cash substantially. In addition further below more.

In Grisslehamn on Vaddö, approx. 60 km to the north of Norrtälje we waited for our ferry which should bring us on the Ǻland islands to Eckerö.


In the Sea-Quater, a maritime district in Mariehamn, the sea days are organised in summer. One finds old sailing ships, music presentations, craft and toys for older children.

Mariehamn Seetage  Mariehamn Seetage  Mariehamn Seetage

With the cable ferry about the Töftösund on the island Vårdö we proceed into the Ǻland island area. All cable ferries and short ferries in the Ǻland archipelago are to be used free of charge. The cable ferries operate - up to few break times - 24h continuously, on 365 days in the year.


On the island Vårdö there is a nice camping place from which one can start from with the kayak to enterprises or explore the island by bicycle. Very near the school museum is to be find , but unfortunately closed on the week-end. The church greets from the ferry coming in the road fork.


Grundsunda lies at the south end of Vårdö.

Grundsunda - Südende  Grundsunda - Südende

To reach from Vårdö the island Simkäla situated to the north, there is an other cable ferry. Earlier one had to shout, today the pressure on the bell button reaches to announce his transport wish.

Simkäla - Erwarten Fähre

On Simkäla Ami Blomquist, an important northern author lived.
If one follows the street further up to her end it goes only wide with a bicycle ferry (liable for costs).

Simkäla - Nordende

Something off the only continuous way over the island loads an inn one to coffee and
Ǻlands Pannkaka.

Simkäla - Värdshus

Ǻlands Pannkaka - the prescription for 4-6 people (freely translated):
1 litre of milk                                                   
1 coffee cup (approx. 150ml) milk rice        
3/4 coffee cup (approx. 110ml) wheat flour
2 eggs                                                             
1/2 coffee cup (approx. 75ml) sugar           
1/2 teaspoon of salt                                     
1 small yeast cube                                       
Milk and rice are cooked. The eggs are hit with the sugar and are mixed under. Now flour, salt and yeast cube is unterstirred, and a little bit more milk is added, if the dough becomes too thick. The dough give in a greased roast form or baking dish and with 210 ° 45-60 min in the stove cook.
The Pannkaka is eaten with plum mush and whipped cream.

Aländischer Pannkaka

Hummelvik on Vårdö is the port of sailing of the north line which leads to Torsholma at the south end of Brändö. Then from Ǻva in the north it goes with an other ferry further to the final harbour with Kustavi in Finland. Unfortunately, there ruled bad wet weather and fog.
Our ship, the M/S Ǻlfågel, one heard long, before she came to view. Every metre of loading area using well packed when it went about Enklinge to Kumlinge, our next stop.

Hummelvik - Schärenfähre zum Ersten   Fahrzeugdeck

The ferry heads from the west coming first of all briefly in the north of the local authority district for recumbent island Enklinge to put in then on the north side of Kumlinge. From here there is also a small ferry, the Enklinge with a row of additional journeys supplied. Seglinge in the southwest of Kumlinge is supplied about a cable ferry connection from Snäckö. Snäckö is also a harbour of the across-going ferry service, from Sottunga in the south coming. The camping place "Ledholm" lies about 1 km to the north this harbour. Though Björkö, the island in the north-east, also belongs to the Kumlinge local authority district, nevertheless, is connected by a cable ferry from the island Lappo (Brändö local authority district). To Björkö further below more.


From Snäckö a look about the water on Seglinge. With the ferry harbour lies the M/S Grisslan which the across-going line supplies.

Blick auf Seglinge  
Fährterminal Snäckö

With surprise we observed the swallows who accompanied the ferry with the crossing constantly. Then it became also clear, why: "Blind passengers" on the cable ferry between Kumlinge and Seglinge

Blinde Passagiere auf der Seilfähre

Seglinge - on the northwest coast

Seglinge - Nordwesten     Seglinge - Nordwest

Camping place "Ledholm" an easy one-star place has lain, amply, quietly and favourably. One hardly looks at it of the hut, but she accommodates a complete kitchen, 2 showers, a WC, wash basin and the office including ministore. Negatively: The water was coloured brown and smelt, because very iron-containing and manganese-containing.
One must know: The islands supply themselves about well, so that is to be handled with the water economically, or it can come to problems with the care. Everywhere in the shops fresh water is offered in big bottles to the sales.

Kumlinge - Ledholm Camping

From a raised vantage point on Kumlinge one had a nice overview in the direction of the south

Kumlinge - Ausblick nach Süden

From Sweden coming the postal route further led over the Ǻland islands to Finland. Still today in the way one finds in addition posts and boards.
By the way: Ǻbo is the Swedish name of the southwest-Finnish city of Turku.


"Hermas" on Enklinge is a museum farm which can be visited. Built in the 18th century the buildings were still inhabited till some decades. The museum provides a comprehensive and good overview about tools and lives at the past.

Enklinge - Hermas

Enklinge - west coast

Enklinge - Westseite  Enklinge - Westseite 

  stones, stones, stones...

Enklinge - Steinstrand

With the M/S Ǻlfagel it further went on the north route from Kumlinge via Lappo to Torsholma on Brändö.


To the Brändö local authority district also belong Jurmo in the north, Körsö in the west and Asterholma and Lappo in the south. Björkö, linked about a cable ferry with Lappo, belongs to the Kumlinge local authority district and, hence, is not registered on the board.

Kommune Brändö

With a small ferry it went of Torsholma on Brändö in the direction of the south to Lappo...

Lappo - Torsholma - Fährfahrt

... and then from there after approx. 2 km of bicycle journey over the island further with a cable ferry to Björkö. Here the view at the road end in the northwest.

Bkjörkö - Nordwest

Did the rocks with the water play,                                                                      Impressively also the crass contrast
or was it different around?                                                                                   of the crossings in the rock.
Björkö - Felsen am Wasser   
Björkö - Felsenfarben

But also the splendid play of colour between rock and plants likes.


Close to Lappos yachtsman's harbour the Skärgards-Museum is open to the public.

Lappo - Skärgardsmuseum     Lappo - Skärgardsmuseum

Ferry to Jurmo in the north of Brändö.

Jurmo - Fähre

Besides Korsberg in the north-west of the island Jurmo

Jurmo - Korsberg im Westen

Camping place on Brändö. In the evening strongly frequents from tent tourists who travel by the bicycle over the islands.

Brändö Camping

Sundown on Brändö

Brändö - Sonnenuntergang

Arrival in Finland with Kustavi, final harbour of the north line.
To know importantly: The journey of "beginning harbour" to "final harbour" must last at least 2 days if one does not want to pay the approx. 4-fold ferry costs. If one can book, in addition, at least 3 huts-, camping- or hotel overnight stays etc. in the Archipelago on the ferry road, the last section to the "final harbour" is free!
Our costs have themselves thus from calculated 212 EUR on 130 EUR (outward journey and return journey!) reduces.

Kustavi - Fähranleger Finnland

Uusikaupunki, situated to the north of Turku on the Baltic Sea, celebrated just his Crusell festival.

Uusikaupunki - Crusell Festival

Sundown on the camping place with Merikarvia, on half a way between Turku and Vaasa. Our most northern travel point.

Merikarvia - Camping
  Merikarvia - Camping
Merikarvia - Camping

Reposaari is an island accessible over streets and lies approx. 20 km to the west of Pori. The camping place lies with the water. The places with sea look were desired very much.

Reposaari - Camping
  Reposaari - Camping

Reposaari - Camping
  Reposaari - Camping

Yyteri before the gates of Pori - Finnish Riviera with 6 km of nature-sandy beach

Pori: Yyteri-Strand
  Pori: Yyteri-Strand

Turku - cathedral church

Turku - Domkirche

Turku - castle

Turku - Schloss

Turku - Schloss   Turku - Schloss

Parainen camping - in the wood to the south of Turku in the south-west-Finish Archipelago, and, nevertheless, in the water conveniently with nice bath place.

Parainen - Camping

Through the Archipelago in the west of Turku is the way to the ferry harbour to Galtby on Korpoo.
The yellow ferries are to be used free of charge.

Schärengebiet vor Turku   Schärengebiet vor Turku

Fährfahrt nach Korpoo   Schärengebiet vor Turku

Galtby on Korpoo. The vehicles on the left in the picture further want on the islands of the round way through the Finish Archipelago. Our caravan stands in the shade and waits for the arrival of the M/S Skiftet for the nearly 2 1/2 hour trip to Kökar. Finally, the ferry comes to view.

Galtby - Fähranleger   MS Skiftet kommt

On the ferry it is again closely. The crossing with beaming blue sky is quiet.
  Long before arrival on Kökar greet church and bell tower.
At this place lived of early Franciscan's monks. The foundations of the buildings are still to be seen.

Auf dem Ladedeck ist jeder Meter genutzt   Kirche auf Kökar in Sicht

Kökar - church at close range.

Kökar - Kirche

 - on the left: The small harbour of Hellsö
- on the right: In the distance one sees the big ferryboats passing from Finland to Sweden

Kökar - Hellsö   Parainen - Camping

Kökar-camping place. On the left the service house with showering, in the middle the adoption which also Marina administers. Even if one does not suppose it, this camping place disposes of a free Internet access WLAN. Because there are only 10 places with electricity, one should announce himself in summer absolutely in advance.

Kökar - Camping

Hobby also on Kökar - amateur radio
In the afternoon if sometimes time remained, a vertical antenna (triple-leg for the 20m-band, homemade) was mounted and connect to the transceiver (TS-50S) to communicate from the islands with the world. During the trip these became all together more than 1,100 calls among other amateur radio stations in Japan, China, Indonesia, Russia, Namibia, Swaziland, the USA, Canada and many European countries.

Kökar - Camping und Amateurfunk

M/S Gudingen stands ready for the trip from Kökar via Sottunga to Föglö.

Kökar - MS Gudingen

on the left: A look in the Brännfjärd with Finholma
on the right: CC-Camping. Unfortunately, the well equipped camping place should be closed in 2010, if no successor is found.

Föglö - Finholma Brännfjärd   Föglö - Finholma

Sundown over Föglö

Fögö - Sonnenuntergang

Degerby on Föglö is the ferry harbour to the main island. The house is the tourist information. The crossing with the M/S Knipan lasts only approx. 25 min.

Degerby - Fähranleger

Degersand camping in the south on Eckerö. A place in the first row is great and spoils with a great view..., however, only if it does not attack from the south!

Degersand Camping   Degersand Camping

The wind has turned on the south, at night has brought storm and rain and has left behind a disturbed sea.

Degersand Camping   Degersand Camping

From the postal museum at Berghamn the arrival of the ferry is pursued back to Sweden.

Degerby - Fähranleger

ås (Sweden) owns a well restored town quarter with many old houses in narrow lanes.


Karlsborg - fortress and museum

Karlsborg Festung   Karlsborg Festungsmuseum

Karlsborg - camping beside the Götakanal

Karlsborg Camping   Karlsborg Camping